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Kiwi Planting Guide
Forget those fuzzy Kiwis you’re used to from the grocery store. Prolific Kiwis are smooooooth and oh so sweet! In addition, Prolific Kiwi are cold-hardy and self-fertile so you don’t need to plant more than one vine in order to get fruit as with other varieties. These Kiwi fruits are smaller than the Kiwis you’re used to, with fuzz-free, edible skins and a sweet-tart flavor. Follow our guidelines to give your Kiwi vine everything it needs to reward you with a hefty harvest each year!
Success Snapshot

PLANTING
DEPTH
Bareroot: Crown 1-2 in. below soil line. Potted: At Soil Line. Mulch to keep soil cool.

WATER
QUANTITY
Moderate

SUNLIGHT
QUANTITY
Full to Partial Sun

PLANTING
PROXIMITY
8 ft. with strong vertical support; similar to grapes. Needs wind protection.

BLOOM
SEASON
Late Summer to Fall. Self-pollinator.

HARDINESS
ZONES
Zones 4-7
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Where to Plant Kiwi
Plant Kiwi in full sun in well-draining soil. In areas with heavy clay or poor-draining soil, it’s best to plant in a large container or raised bed. Choose a spot where there is a trellis or other structure for the vine to climb up and room for it to spread out.
When to Plant Kiwi
Plant Kiwi in the spring when the danger of frost has passed.
How to Plant Kiwi
How to Grow Kiwi
- Water at least once a week, more often in warm weather; 1 in. of water at a time is a good estimate.
- Add a light mulch of compost to the surrounding soil to improve drainage, reduce evaporation, and keep competing weeds at bay.
- Apply a half-strength high-phosphorus fertilizer once in the spring and again in mid-summer. Avoid over-fertilizing, which will lead to lush growth but fewer blooms.
Kiwi Tips & Tricks
- Harvest the Kiwi fruit in the fall when they are juicy, the seeds are black, and the flavor is sweet-tart. Ripeness is best determined by tasting.
- Kiwi vines only fruit on new wood, so prune the vines when they are dormant to remove the branches that already bore fruit, as well as dead or broken branches.
- Prune the vines again in the summer when there are blossoms but the fruit hasn’t set yet. At that time, cut each branch back to just 4 to 6 leaves beyond the last blossom. This will prevent too-long branches from breaking with the weight of the fruit.