Crocosmia (Montbretia) Growing Information

Gladiolus' Hardy Cousin

A single glance at the plant forms of glads and crocosmia will leave no question as to whether these are related. (They are.)  But these cousins certainly approach life differently.

Glads are belle of the ball types, with kaleidoscope blooms and flowers festooned with wild patterns and ruffles.  Crocosmia stick to the yellow-orange-red side of the color wheel and deliver a concentrated, straight-forward presentation.  Crocosmia are also tougher when it come to winter temperatures, weathering zone 5 or zone 6 chills, depending on the variety. 

These cousins are different, but both are beautiful.  We can't imagine gardening without either.  Can you?

Outdoor Beds

1.  Find a location where the soil drains well.  If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site.  Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2"-3" to improve the drainage.  Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Crocosmia will not survive in soils that are water logged.

2. Site your crocosmia where they will receive full sun. 

3. Plant the bulbs (corms, actually) 2"-3" deep and 8"-10" apart.  Place them with the pointy end facing up.

4.  After planting, water your crocosmia generously, soaking the soil.  Roots and top growth will form within a few weeks.

5.  When in bloom, feel free to clip crocosmia stems for bouquets.  This will not hurt the plants and will provide a steady supply of cut flower.  Choose flower stalks with the bottom half of the blooms open, the remaining buds will open over a several day period.

6.  After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off.  The leaves will gather sunlight and provide nourishment for next year's show.  Water as needed.   Leaves may be removed when they yellow.  (In cold areas, to save your crocosmia for next year, dig the bulbs after the first frost.  Let them air dry for several days.  Then store in a cool location in paper bags or boxes filled with peat moss.)

7.  Your crocosmia will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.

Pots, Tubs & Urns

1.  Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil.  Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine.  Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; crocosmia bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.

2. Site your crocosmia where they will receive full sun. 

3. Plant the bulbs (corms, actually) 2"-3" deep and 8"-10" apart.  Place them with the pointy end facing up.

4.  After planting, water your crocosmia generously, soaking the soil.  Roots and top growth will form within a few weeks.

5.  When in bloom, feel free to clip crocosmia stems for bouquets.  This will not hurt the plants and will provide a steady supply of cut flower.  Choose flower stalks with the bottom half of the blooms open, the remaining buds will open over a several day period.

6.  After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off.  The leaves will gather sunlight and provide nourishment for next year's show.  Water as needed.   Leaves may be removed when they yellow.  (In cold areas, to save your crocosmia for next year, dig the bulbs after the first frost.  Let them air dry for several days.  Then store in a cool location in paper bags or boxes filled with peat moss.)

7.  Your crocosmia will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.