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Lily Planting Guide

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Loved for 3,000 Years
Lilies

History buffs will be pleased to note that lilies have been gracing gardens in various parts of the word for over 3,000 years. That's a long time.

While the varieties of the lilies on this website have not been around that long they do spring from genetic pools that originated when many of the world's peoples were still nomadic hunters and gathers. As you experiment with new types of lilies, take pride in knowing that you are part of a tradition that stretches back to almost 1000 B.C.

Outdoor Beds
  1. Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3" to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Lilies will not survive in soggy soil or standing water.
  2. Site your lilies where they will receive full sun or bright filtered light.
  3. Dig holes and plant the bulbs 6-7” deep and 6” apart. Plant the bulbs with the flat side down and the garlic-like cloves facing up.
  4. After planting, water well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the fall. Top growth and flower stems will form in the spring.
  5. When in bloom, feel free to cut lily flowers for bouquets. The generally accepted rule of thumb is to cut up to one third of the stem and not more. This ensures that there will be sufficient foliage left to nourish the bulb for next year's show.
  6. After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1" of moisture per week is a good estimate. 
  7. Later in the season the leaves and flower stalks will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your lilies will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
  1. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; lily bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Keep in mind the mature size of the varieties you chose and plan your container sizes accordingly.
  2. Site your containers where they will receive full sun or bright filtered light.
  3. Dig holes and plant the lilies 6-7" deep and about 5" apart. Plant the bulbs with the flat side down and the garlic-like cloves facing up.
  4. After planting, water well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the fall. Top growth and flower stems will form in the spring.
  5. When in bloom, feel free to cut lily flowers for bouquets. The generally accepted rule of thumb is to cut up to one third of the stem and not more. This ensures that there will be sufficient foliage left to nourish the bulb for next year's show.
  6. After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1" of moisture per week is a good estimate. 
  7. Later in the season the leaves and flower stalks will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Foliage many be removed at this point. Your lilies will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.




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